Been there, ugly things happen in wood piles. long 2X6 stringers to the side of the garage using 6”X 5/16” lag screws recessed in to the wood. The header is two 2x4s with a 7/16” strip of OSB to flesh it out to 3-½” thick. Two were for attaching the roof joists, the other two were for roof joist supports and were attached about 2ft apart. I draw a plumb line on the rafter at that mark similar to the ridge end of the rafter. Install the second set of tab-less shingles upside right on top of the first set. 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 6 ft, 6 pieces – 45″ long, 2 pieces of 4×4 lumber – 6 ft FRAME; 1 piece of 3/4” OSB or plywood – 4’x6′ FLOORING; 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 12″, 1 piece – 6 ft, 6 pieces – 81″, 3 … The two side walls were also straightforward framing. Here’s a great list showing example prices and specific brands and quantities. Building it took a weekend, but the paperwork and inspection took forever. Fastened the bottom plate to the front beam, and then to the side walls using 3-1/2” galvanized nails or green screws. Railroad Rail Lantern / Sign Stand Split With Axe. As a rule of thumb, there are three framing styles that are most popular with residential homeowners: 1. I use long lag screws (3/8" x 5") and washers. Next 2X4 nailers for attachment of the roofing panels were nailed onto the top of the roof joists about 2 feet apart. Square the frame using the 3-4-5 rule, and check and adjust level if needed. Use weather-resistant lumber and these free plans to build a long-lasting lean to shed on your property. Used 3-inch nails to secure the top plates into place. Securing the rafter hangers with 2-1/2” 8d or 10d galvanized nails or 2-1/2” Simpson SD Structural Connector screws. By applying the principles of a wilderness lean-to structure to a pole barn, you can build one of the simplest outbuildings in any size. The best I could do was a 2/12 slope. With that I need to figure out what the pitch of the roof would be, still fitting about a foot lower than the eaves on the garage and using only 8 ft. 2X4s for the roof joists. I cut the top plates for the two side walls so they overlap the front wall. The finishing touch was the double shed door. I live in Southern California. The ideal roof slope for the climate is 5/12, or better. I didn't seal it, haven't had any problems. If you want to know how to build a lean to shed on the side of house or how to build a lean-to off of a shed, then things barely change. I'm looking for a storage shed for lawn mowers and stuff like that. I chose 16” centers so the rafters would sit over top of each of the studs, improving the load transfer and increasing the roof support. I set a 4X4 post in each hole after the concrete hardened, filled the holes, squared and leveled the posts, then bolted on the 2X8 joist carrier with 4” X5/16 lag screws. Finish shingling the roof, off-setting each row from the previous row by 1/3rd of a shingle. Then I decided it should have about a 7 ft. ceiling. Trim or bend the drip edge at the corners for a more weatherproof finish. Build the barn with the poles on one side taller than the poles on the other with a flat roof and you have a lean-to pole barn. The panel more water and insect resistant than T1-11. Pro Tip: Never use roofing nails! You can reach the Building Division at (714) 754-5273. For sheathing a roof either plywood or OSB are fine. I unrolled the 1st or bottom row and stapled it to the OSB. Start by standing the rear wall first and then stand and attach the side walls. The panel is then given a resin-saturated Smart Guard overlay for painting and protection. I added some extra scrap 2X4 where I suspect the snow sliding from the garage roof will hit. To better weatherproof the trim and shed, I caulked the trim seams with a good outdoor paintable caulking. How To Build A Lean To Shed: Step by Step, Considerations for Building Lean To Sheds, Simpson Strong-Tie ridge rafter connectors, article on how to build double shed doors, Adds extra space to the lean-to as you don’t need to build the back wall, removing existing siding also adds some space, Only building 3 walls, reduced cost of building a separate back wall, May be insurance and tax implications as it becomes a more permanent structure. Swimming pool enclosures require plan review, permits and inspection. On a 4-foot run that would take 8-inches off at the outside wall, which impacts the door height (I’m 6’-2”…ummm… but my wife is 5’-3”J). To secure the two end rafters I used “L” brackets with 1-1/2” SD connector screws. We did our best. I thought about adding some Y-bracing from the posts the horizontal beam but the ledger board sounds like a good idea. I have a Charmaster forced air wood/oil furnace in the basement of our old farm house in southern Michigan. I checked the options for finishing the roof. The back two corners I trimmed and nailed the same as the side of the front corner. Thanks for the concern, you are probably correct. I then attached a few lengths 3X3 angle edging to the end of roof joists to help protect from the weather. Frost heave in cold-climates may be an issue *Most house foundations are warm (heated) foundations reaching below frost levels. That looks plenty strong with the angle braces on the rafters. Assemble the wall frame the same as the other three walls. One hole could not go any deeper than a foot due to large rocks and tree roots. I checked the level between blocks and between rows. You won’t need any special tools. I fixed 2 by digging 2 ft hole beside the post, inserting steel strap into hole, filling hole with concrete and fastening strap to post with lag screws. The length of the supports was chosen so that I could get two supports from one 8 foot 2X4, rather than using any architectural calculations. My hope is to run a 2x6 inside the vertical posts on the 3 open sides and trench down about 4 inches so that the 2x6 sticks up about 2 inches. The 3/8" x 5" lag screws and washers will last a long time especially if they are galvanized. Most plans include list of materials needed to build a lean-to addition. Start with the row closest to existing shed: I dug the hole, filled it with a couple of inches of gravel, and placed deck block. Drill pilot holes at both ends of the supports and lock them into place with 2 1/2″ screws.